Hollywood has at all times been a culinary hotbed, however among the finest bites on the town are tucked away and rarely spoken of. It’s actually an IYKYK scene. Fortunately, we’ve discovered one other of the town’s finest and brightest gems hiding in plain sight. Nestled immediately subsequent to Sundown Sound, the place legends have etched their energies into Los Angeles’ musical historical past for greater than half a century, one other form of artistry is unfolding within the type of two eating places housed in a single constructing, every dedicated to a unique expression of craft.
That is Udatsu and Rokushoa twin institution that shares an tackle, possession, and ethos, but couldn’t really feel extra distinct in tone. Consider them as two actions in the identical composition: one a hushed and exact sonata; the opposite, a assured pop communal celebration. I visited each institutions inside the identical week. Two completely different nights. Two very completely different moods. The mixed expertise types probably the most quietly sensible culinary initiatives Los Angeles has seen in years.
Night time I — Udatsu: The Ardour + Precision
My first go to was on a Thursday night time. My producing associate and I had simply completed monitoring background vocals for the ultimate music on my upcoming album. To rejoice, we booked seats at Udatsu, the intimate omakase bar named for Michelin-starred Chef Hisashi Udatsu, who simply occurred to be on the town from Japan for one week solely.
When coming into the constructing, you first step into Rokusho. The house is brutalist trendy: concrete partitions, darkish tables, and just a few fastidiously curated items of décor. We didn’t have time to completely sink into the vibe downstairs as a result of we had been greeted by a preciously petite girl in a conventional Japanese kimono who ushered us upstairs to the unique scene of our feast.
The aesthetic in Udatsu is much more stark than the world beneath. Eight stools in a row at an extended stone counter. Concrete partitions and flooring. The one heat tone rests within the fantastically oiled slab of wooden from which the chef works his magic. There aren’t any distractions from the true star of the expertise, the meals. Our hostess confirmed us to our stools after which pushed them in firmly to nestle us in opposition to the bar. It was a delicate formality however surprisingly highly effective. I truthfully felt like I used to be a child getting tucked right into a excessive chair. Cared for, disarmed, and fully current.
Chef Udatsu was already arduous at work prepping our first course. He moved with the calm focus of a grasp calligrapher. Each gesture deliberate. Each lower exact. His apprentice, who runs the house and serves because the omakase chef in his absence, watched and assisted his mentor with unwavering consideration, each radiating delight and objective. The cadence of the meal unfolded naturally, every bit following the subsequent with good timing and emotional logic.
I wouldn’t dare try to explain the whole lot that was introduced on the plates in entrance of us. Every course was its personal miniature masterpiece, and to attempt to sum them up neatly would dishonor the magic of the second and the person behind it. What I can say is that each chunk felt like a revelation of balance- salt in opposition to citrus, heat in opposition to chill, the ephemeral concord of rice, sea, and smoke.
Because the night progressed, I discovered myself eager about the parallels between what we do within the recording studio and what Udatsu was doing at his counter. Each crafts demand endurance, precision, and a relentless devotion to feeling. You layer, refine, and hear, chasing that invisible level the place the whole lot aligns. When it occurs, there’s a stillness, a quick silence that appears like arrival. That’s when you’ve made one thing true that is able to serve.
At one level towards the tip of our feast, I requested Chef Udatsu, “What’s your favourite a part of your craft?” He smiled and thoughtfully replied, “the observe of service.” With that, he went proper again to work. A real lesson within the pursuit of mastery if ever I’d obtained one.
Night time II — Rokusho: Fireplace, Taste, and Circulate
Only some nights later, I returned with my fiancée to expertise the opposite half of the story. Positioned on the decrease ground of the identical constructing, Rokusho is the marginally bigger and extra accessible little brother. Nonetheless high-end, however much less formal. If Udatsu was a masterclass in custom and precision, Rokusho is the sneakers with a go well with sibling that allow you to know you haven’t misplaced your edge.
The lighting is low and cinematic, the form of glow that makes everybody look half a shade cooler than they most likely are. And the music? Completely on fireplace. Underground hip-hop classics melting into funk and soul, the form of soundtrack that makes your ears perk up mid-conversation and ask aloud, “Are they actually taking part in this?!”. It’s like eating inside somebody’s deep lower vinyl assortment. Vibe examine: handed with flying colours.
The night time started on the bar, the place Joe Honda’s cocktail program blends Japanese spirits with a Californian swagger. Every cocktail was crisp, balanced, and a bit mischievous. My private favourite was the yuzu spritz, mild and easy, leaving nothing to be desired whereas including nothing in extra. It’s additionally value noting that each Rokusho and Udatsu have a partnership with Clase Azul tequila and supply a range and flight that you would be able to’t discover anyplace else in Los Angeles.
In a pleasant distinction to Udatsu’s rigor, Rokusho head chef Alex Suzuki leads a kitchen that deftly merges conventional Japanese methods with the daring flavors of Los Angeles. Additions of components like pickled serrano chilis to enhance hamachi or whipped queso fresco atop harumaki are just some of the methods Suzuki leans in to the cross cultural palette and creates one thing uniquely his personal. You possibly can style the reverence for custom, but additionally the liberty to paint outdoors the strains. It’s a steadiness of intuition and intention, the form of equilibrium that solely comes from complete command of your craft.
Rokusho lately celebrated their one-year anniversary, and their main menu has been retooled in honor of the milestone. They’ve additionally made a number of restricted time vacation menu additions for an additional pop of seasonal aptitude and taste. Deep sea should attempt’s embody the hamachi & serrano + salmon & ikura handrolls. For a heartier chunk, nothing beats their new Wagyu steak with shishito gremolata & yakiniku sauce. High to backside, the menu doesn’t miss.
Whether or not you’re within the temper for the refinement of Udatsu or the recipe remixes of Rokusho, there’s no improper strategy to go. Simply ensure you seize a res prematurely as a result of with this a lot taste underneath one roof, the demand is simply going up as phrase will get round.